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Lease vs. Cash Calculator: Lease vs Buy a Car

Enter the vehicle and the lease offer

$

The negotiated price, used for both options.

%
Paying cash
$
%

Used to estimate what the car is worth when the lease would end.

Leasing
months

Both options are compared over this period.

%

Percent of the vehicle price.

%

Money factor × 2400.

$
$
More options
$
$

Disposition fee plus expected mileage or wear charges.

%

What the cash could earn if you didn’t spend it on the car. Use an after-tax figure, or 0 to ignore it.

Your results

Cheaper option

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Cost of paying cash

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Cost of leasing

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Cash paid up front to buy–
Car’s value at the end of the term–
Lease payment (with tax)–
Break-even return on cash–

Costs cover the lease term only. Paying cash gets credit for the car you still own; both include what the money could have earned. Above the break-even return, leasing comes out cheaper.

Side-by-side breakdown

Where each option’s cost comes from over the lease term. Negative amounts are money back.

ItemPay cashLease

How the return on your cash changes the answer

The same deal at different investment returns. The higher the return, the more paying cash costs you in lost earnings.

Return on cashCost of paying cashCost of leasingCheaper

Results are estimates for educational purposes and are not financial, tax or legal advice.

Wondering whether to sign a lease or write a check for your next vehicle? The lease vs. cash calculator adds up what each route really costs you over the same stretch of time, including the investment growth you give up when cash leaves your account, so you can see the net cost of each option side by side instead of judging by the monthly payment alone. Next, open the free car loan calculator and enter your own details to see an estimate in seconds.

How the Lease vs. Cash Calculator Compares Your Options

Every car deal hides two different cash stories. When you pay cash, a large amount leaves your savings on day one and you keep a car that is still worth something when the period ends. When you lease, you pay far less up front, send a monthly payment to the leasing company, and hand the car back. The calculator puts both stories on one timeline and asks a single question: after the lease term is over, which choice left you with more money? Think of it as a lease vs buy calculator built for people who have cash on hand and a vehicle to choose. Each input below feeds one side of that comparison, so it helps to know what to type into every box. The home equity vs auto loan calculator is free to use with no sign-up, and works on desktop and mobile.

Purchase price, negotiated sales price and MSRP

Start with the purchase price you expect to pay for the vehicle after any manufacturer discount. Dealers often quote the MSRP, the manufacturer's suggested retail price, but your negotiated sales price is the number that counts because both the lease and the cash purchase of the vehicle are built on it. Using the same price for each side keeps the comparison fair.

Sales tax rate and transaction fees

Your sales tax rate applies to the whole price when you buy, while a lease usually folds tax into every monthly payment. Add transaction fees such as title and registration, which you pay once when you take delivery and which are normally not taxed. These costs belong in the buying column even though no lender ever bills you for them.

Investment rate of return

This is the input most people skip, and it often decides the result. The investment rate of return is what your cash would earn if it stayed invested instead of going into a vehicle. Paying cash for a car means giving up that growth, and the calculator reports it as lost investment earnings. A savings account might pay a few percent; a stock fund could earn more but carries risk, so choose a rate you would genuinely expect to earn.

Annual depreciation and market value

A new vehicle loses value every year. A high annual depreciation rate is around 20%, a medium one 15% and a low one 10%. Applied over your holding period, it produces the market value of the car when the lease would have ended, which is what you keep as the cash buyer of the vehicle.

Residual percent and lease money factor

On the leasing side, the residual percent sets the car's expected worth at lease end. A higher residual value means you pay for less depreciation, so your lease payment drops. The lease money factor is the finance charge, and you can convert it from a lease interest rate by dividing the annual percentage by 2,400. A 6.0% rate, for instance, equals a money factor of 0.0025. If your dealer quotes only a money factor, the same rule works backwards.

Lease term, security deposit and other fees

The lease term is the number of months you will drive the car before returning it; 24, 36 and 48 months are typical. A refundable security deposit is assumed to come back at the end, but it still ties up cash in the meantime. Enter any other fees due at signing, such as the acquisition fee, documentation fee or destination charge, since these are lease-related fees that raise the total even though they never appear in the payment.

Down payment, trade-in and cash rebate

A down payment on a lease is also called a capital reduction or cap cost reduction. It lowers the capitalized cost and therefore each payment, but it does not lower what you pay overall. Your trade-in works similarly: its trade-in value, minus any amount owed on it, reduces what you finance or capitalize. A cash rebate or other cash incentives cut the price for either route. Because the credit helps both sides, make sure you apply it once to each.

Lease or Buy Formulas: Net Cost of Lease and Net Cost of Buying

The comparison boils down to two totals. The option with the smaller figure is the cheaper one over your chosen period, and the gap between them is your estimated savings. If you want to see how the figures change, the boat loan calculator online gives you an instant result you can adjust as you go.

Net cost of buying

Take everything you spend to own the car, add the growth you forgo, and subtract what the car is still worth:

$$\text{Net cost of buying} = P(1+t) + F + E_{buy} - V_{end}$$

Here \(P\) is the purchase price, \(t\) is the tax rate, \(F\) is the fees, \(E_{buy}\) is the lost investment earnings on those upfront costs and \(V_{end}\) is the market value at the end. Lost investment earnings equal the amount paid multiplied by \((1+r/12)^{n}-1\), where \(r\) is your rate of return and \(n\) is the number of months.

Net cost of lease

For the lease, add the cash due at signing, all total lease payments and the earnings you give up on the money you put down:

$$\text{Net cost of lease} = D + F_{lease} + (N \times M) + E_{lease}$$

\(D\) is the down payment, \(F_{lease}\) is the other fees, \(N\) is the number of months, \(M\) is the monthly payment and \(E_{lease}\) is the lost investment earnings on the down payment, deposit and fees. Nothing is subtracted at the end, because you hand the car back and own nothing afterward.

Lease payment from residual value and money factor

The monthly payment is built from a depreciation charge plus a lease charge (the rent), then taxed:

$$M = \left(\frac{C-R}{n} + (C+R)\times MF\right)\times(1+t)$$

\(C\) is the capitalized cost after your cash down payment, \(R\) is the residual value in dollars and \(MF\) is the money factor. A larger residual lowers the first term, which is why two cars with the same sticker price can lease for very different amounts.

Buy or Lease: A Worked Example Over 36 Months

Suppose you are choosing between leasing and paying cash for a sedan with a negotiated price of $38,450. Sales tax is 6.25%, transaction fees are $385, and your cash would otherwise earn 5.5% a year. The car depreciates 15% annually. The lease runs 36 months at a 6.0% lease interest rate (a money factor of 0.0025), with a $2,000 down payment, $595 in other fees, a $500 security deposit and a 58% residual, which equals $22,301.

  • Cash side: price plus tax is $40,853, and with fees you pay $41,238 on day one.
  • Lease side: the capitalized cost is $36,450 after the down payment, giving a depreciation charge of $393.03 and a lease charge of $146.88 each month. With tax added, your monthly payment is $573.65.
ItemPay cashLease
Cash paid up front$41,238$2,595
Total lease paymentsn/a$20,651
Lost investment earnings$7,380$554
Market value of the car at 36 months-$23,613$0
Net cost$25,005$23,800

In this case, leasing wins by roughly $1,200. The cash buyer keeps a $23,613 car, but it took $41,238 out of an account that would have grown by $7,380.

What changes the answer: your rate of return

The result flips if your money would earn less. At a 4% rate of return, the net cost of buying drops to $22,873 while leasing costs $23,640, so paying cash saves you about $767. At 8%, buying climbs to $28,769 against $24,083 for the lease. In this example the break-even point sits near 4.6%, which makes the rate of return the single most sensitive input you will enter.

How residual value shifts the lease

Residual value moves the lease almost as much. Drop the residual to 50% and the monthly payment rises to $656.26, pushing the net cost of lease to $26,774, which is more than buying. Raise it to 65% and the payment falls to $501.36 with a net cost of $21,198. Always ask the dealership for the residual and money factor in writing, because both can be negotiated or marked up.

Leasing vs. Buying a Photographer's SUV with the Lease vs. Cash Calculator

Marisol, a freelance photographer, needs an SUV for gear and location shoots. Her dealer offers a $46,915 price, and she has about $51,000 sitting in a 36-month certificate of deposit that pays 4.2%. Before touching that money, she wants to know which route leaves her better off in three years.

She enters a 7.25% sales tax rate, $612 in transaction fees, 18% annual depreciation and a 4.2% rate of return. For the lease side, she types a 36-month term, a 5.4% lease interest rate, $1,500 down, $725 in other fees and the quoted residual of 55%, which is $25,803.

The calculator returns a monthly lease payment of $756.13, or $27,221 in total lease payments. Adding the down payment, fees and $298 of lost investment earnings, the net cost of lease is $29,744. Paying cash costs $50,928 up front plus $6,826 in forgone interest, minus the $25,867 the SUV would still be worth, so the net cost of buying is $31,887. Leasing comes out $2,143 ahead.

The result is only as firm as the residual, so she reruns it with one change. At a 50% residual, the payment climbs to $820.35, the net cost of lease becomes $32,056 and buying wins by $169. A five-point residual swing erases the whole advantage, which tells her exactly what to do next: she asks the dealer to put the 55% residual in writing, and if the figure comes back lower, she pays cash and leaves the certificate of deposit to mature on schedule.

Lease or Buy: Pros, Cons and Costs the Totals Miss

These factors sit outside the net cost totals above, so weigh them alongside the result. Numbers settle the cost question, but a lease contract comes with conditions that a calculator cannot price. Weigh these before you decide between a lease versus buy.

Lease versus buy trade-offs

The classic lease vs. buy debate rarely has one right answer. An auto lease gives you lower monthly payments, a fresh vehicle every few years, repairs covered by the factory warranty and no resale hassle. Buying lets you modify the vehicle, drive without limits and own the car outright once the loan is gone, so you can enjoy payment-free years. If you drive a lot, ownership usually wins; if you like a new car every three years, a lease fits better. Compare lease terms from several lessors before you sign.

  • A lease limits your annual miles, often to 10,000, 12,000 or 15,000, and charges for excess mileage.
  • You may owe wear-and-tear charges and a disposition fee when you return the car.
  • Ending the lease early can be expensive if your plans change.
  • Insurance on a leased car is often required at higher coverage levels than on a car you own.
  • Paying cash means no auto loan at all, but it leaves you responsible for maintenance and repairs after the warranty expires.

Why depreciation and resale value matter

As a lessee, you pay for depreciation but never carry the risk of a poor resale value on the vehicle. As an owner, you keep both the upside and the loss of that vehicle. The market value it produces is what the calculator subtracts from what you paid, so a vehicle that holds its value makes buying more attractive, while one that drops quickly favors leasing.

Financing the Purchase Instead of Paying Cash

The comparison above assumes a cash purchase, so financing changes the buying side from one large outlay into a stream of payments. Many shoppers cannot or would rather not pay cash. If you finance, replace the cash price with an auto loan and compare the loan payment with the lease payment. Unlike a basic lease vs buy car calculator that stops at the payment, this comparison keeps going until the end of the term. Your loan term and interest rate then drive the buying side, and your credit score shapes the rate a bank or credit union will offer. A longer loan lowers the monthly payments but raises the total cost through extra interest, and it can leave you upside down, owing more than the car is worth, in the early years.

Loan term and interest rate

Shorter loan terms usually carry lower rates and higher payments; longer ones do the opposite. Compare the full total cost, not only the payment: a loan turns the buying side of your result into payments plus interest instead of a single cash outlay.

Acquisition fee and other lease costs

Enter the acquisition fee in the calculator's lease fee input so it counts toward your lease result. Leasing companies charge it to arrange the contract, and it is easy to overlook next to the headline payment. Savings from a cheaper payment can vanish once every fee is counted.

Lease vs. Cash Calculator questions

Is it better to lease or pay cash for a car?

It depends on what your cash would earn elsewhere. Paying cash saves lease charges and fees, but it removes a large sum from your investments. The calculator totals both options over the lease term so you can see which one leaves you with more money.

What is lost investment income?

It is the growth your up-front money would have earned if it had stayed invested at your chosen rate of return. It is added to both options, in proportion to the cash each one needs on day one.

How is a lease payment calculated?

The payment is a depreciation charge, which is the capitalized cost minus the residual value divided by the number of months, plus a rent charge equal to the capitalized cost plus the residual multiplied by the money factor. Sales tax is then added to each payment.

How do I convert a lease interest rate to a money factor?

Divide the annual percentage rate by 2,400. For example, 6% becomes 0.0025. To go the other way, multiply the money factor by 2,400.

What residual percent should I enter?

Use the figure on your lease quote, since the leasing company sets it. A higher residual lowers your payment, and it should be confirmed in writing before you sign.

Does a bigger down payment make a lease cheaper?

It lowers each monthly payment, but the total you pay stays about the same, and you lose the money if the car is stolen or totaled early. That is why the calculator also counts the investment earnings you give up.

Are security deposits included?

A refundable deposit is assumed to come back at the end of the lease, so it only adds lost investment earnings, not a permanent cost.

Does the calculator include insurance, maintenance or excess mileage charges?

No. Those costs vary by contract and driver, so add any expected excess-mileage or wear charges to your lease fees to get a fuller picture.